The City of La Maddalena: From Ancient Times to Today 03/01/2024 – Posted in: Discover Sardinia – Tags: Cala Gavetta, La Maddalena City, La Maddalena Island, La Maddalena Park, Sardinia
With the fall of the Western Roman Empire, the Archipelago of La Maddalena depopulated and became a haven for pirates, Saracens, and Italians.
Only in medieval times did the islands of La Maddalena see timid human settlements again: scattered groups of monks and hermits established themselves there.
In fact, the dense vegetation and the shores bathed by a warm and tranquil sea made the islands a perfect place for meditation and personal exploration.
La Maddalena in the Middle Ages
Thanks to the preservation of an important written document, we have evidence of human presence on the islands: a bull from Pope Innocent IV, in which the pope included the hermits in the rule of St. Benedict.
Some convents arose on the islands of Santa Maria and La Maddalena until the Turkish invasion of 1584 razed the monasteries and plundered the islands. Silence fell again on the archipelago.
Early Urban Settlements in La Maddalena
Pirates and brigands took possession of the coasts of La Maddalena for a long period until some Corsican shepherds decided to cross the sea and settle permanently on our islands.
The shepherds were attracted by the spread of agriculture on the flat coasts, and the rich seabed of the sea drew the interest of Ligurian, Tuscan, and Neapolitan fishermen. There is news of the birth of children in La Maddalena and Caprera and fishing concessions in the waters of the Strait of Bonifacio at the beginning of the 1600s.
The Birth of the City of La Maddalena
The Treaty of London led to the annexation of the Kingdom of Sardinia to Piedmont in 1720, but in the cession, there was no mention of the islands of the Archipelago, which became a no man’s land. In reality, they became a land of smuggling that involved both Sardinia and Corsica.
Soon, the islands were contested by Sardinia and France: the beautiful and solitary archipelago was now desired by all.
In 1767, the islanders, led by Pietro Millelire, the patriarch of the most famous family in La Maddalena, agreed to submit to Sardinia, and the Sardinian flag flew from the top of Guardia Vecchia, the highest point of the island of La Maddalena.
It was decided to develop the new urban settlement in the marina of Cala Gavetta, where all the fishermen were stationed, and a church was erected, which was dedicated to Santa Maria Maddalena, the current Trinity Church.
Napoleon Bonaparte and La Maddalena
Even the shepherds, enticed by the opportunities opening up in Cala Gavetta, descended from the heights and settled in the village. The citizens soon became united and cohesive and soon had the opportunity to prove it.
The French army, led by the young Corsican lieutenant Napoleon Bonaparte, sailed from Bonifacio to conquer the islands.
The people of La Maddalena reacted instantly, forcing the enemy fleet to take refuge on the island of Santo Stefano. Despite Napoleon’s soldiers being obviously more numerous, the islanders were more motivated and succeeded in besieging the enemies, forcing them to retreat.
Domenico Millelire, the leader of the defenders, hoisted an improvised flag on Fort Santo Stefano. The banner represented Santa Maria Maddalena, at the foot of the cross, and the mantle of the Saint reproduced the outline of the island. This is how Napoleon recorded his first defeat precisely in La Maddalena, while Domenico Millelire earned the first Gold Medal of Italy.
Admiral Nelson and La Maddalena
English Admiral Horatio Nelson chose La Maddalena as the base for his fleet, pursuing the French, in 1803. Nelson described La Maddalena as “the most beautiful port in the world” and, in gratitude for the hospitality, donated a precious crucifix and two candelabra to our city, now kept in the parish church of Santa Maria Maddalena.
Garibaldi and La Maddalena
Since 1856, the island of Caprera became the home of one of the heroes of the Italian Risorgimento: Giuseppe Garibaldi. For 25 years, Garibaldi and his family lived in the archipelago, in a simple and frugal way, holding a strong connection with the land. Even today, in Caprera, it is possible to visit his residence: the Garibaldi Complex.
La Maddalena Today
Today, the islands of the Archipelago of La Maddalena are visited by tourists from all over the world.
Visitors who ferry land in the tourist port of Cala Gavetta, where the current city of La Maddalena has arisen, are looking for the same authenticity and connection with the territory that Garibaldi experienced in Caprera.
Immersed in the lush and fragrant vegetation, on the coasts of La Maddalena, it is still possible to breathe the same silence in which the hermits contemplated the turquoise of the sea a thousand years ago.
Main port of La Maddalena
City Center of La Maddalena
Further Readings about Sardinia:
Castelsardo, the medieval town
Asinara Island, the Sardinian Alcatraz
Dos and Don’ts when in Sardinia